Probablemente si os pido que me citéis un cosmético capaz de combatir o prevenir el fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo cada uno de vosotros me daréis una respuesta válida. Pero si la pregunta es qué es el fotoenvejecimiento, la cosa no siempre está tan clara.
Es cierto que el término fotoenvejecimiento se ha puesto muy de moda entre las casas dermocosméticas porque engloba varios aspectos del envejecimiento cutáneo con un origen común, la radiación ultravioleta.
En concreto el fotoenvejecimiento se define como el conjunto de cambios provocados por la radiaciación ultavioleta que se suman a los provocados por el propio envejecimiento cronológico.
La radiación ultravioleta genera radicales libres que a su vez provocan un daño en el ADN de nuestras células, causando una disminución en la síntesis de colágeno y antioxidantes y aumentando la degradación de colágeno y elastina, todo este proceso que ahora os explico de forma más o menos simple, se hace visible al ojo humano de la siguiente forma:
- Aparecen arrugas en principio, alrededor de los ojos, debido a la disminución de colágeno y elastina.
- Enrojecimiento, como consecuencia de la inflamación y debilitación de los vasos sanguíneos.
- Falta de elasticidad alrededor de los pómulos de ahí que el surco nasolabial se haga más pronunciado, esto es debido a irregularidades en la piel y disminución de la síntesis de ácido hialurónico.
- Deshidratación ya que la barrera protectora hidratante se debilita perdiendo agua que necesita para mantener la luminosidad adecuada.
- Aumenta la síntesis de tirosinasa y la transferencia de melanina se altera provocando un aumento del número de manchas provocadas por el sol.
- Tanto la renovación celular como la diferenciación se enlentecen haciendo que la piel se vea áspera, sin brillo, con los poros dilatados especialmente en las mejillas y la barbilla.
Todos estos síntomas pueden manifestarse en mayor o menor medida en función de factores genéticos, estilo de vida y de la conducta frente al sol y se pueden eliminar mediante tres sencillos pasos:
1.- Prevención. Un buen antioxidante como los que nos ofrece SkinCeuticals (Serum10, CE Ferulic o Phloretin CF) o Neostrata ( Skin Active Matrix Sérum ) no solo nos protege de la radiación ultravioleta, evitando futuros daños, sino que también repara parte del daño causado, mejorando líneas de expresión y manchas.
2.- Protección. Los fotoprotectores UVA/UVB de amplio espectro nos protegen del 55% de la radiación que llega hasta nuestra piel. Si a esta protección le sumamos la que nos aporta el antioxidante, conseguimos neutralizar el 99% de la radiación responsable del fotoenvejecimiento. Entre los factores de protección más demandados encontramos Ultra Facial Defense y Mineral Radiance UV Defense de SkinCeuticals y Heliocare gel crema de Endocare.
3.- Corrección. Es fundamental el uso a diario de productos adecuados para tratar los síntomas del fotoenvejecimiento que ya se manifiestan en nuestra piel. En función de ellos podemos encontrar varios productos como el fluido Premium noche y día de Lierac para pieles muy fotoenvejecidas, Redermic C de la Roche-Posay para pieles maduras y con problemas de sensibilidad,…
Como veis, hasta ahora la mayoría de productos antiedad están enfocados a la corrección de un fotoenvejecimiento instaurado, de una piel madura, os digo hasta ahora porque en breve os hablaré de un revolucionario producto para tratar los múltiples síntomas del fotoenvejecimiento prematuro y es que al menos yo, quiero envejecer, cumplir 100 años, pero que se note lo más tarde posible y quiero comenzar a tratarlo ya!!!
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