Los comedones abiertos, comúnmente conocidos como puntos negros, son unas alteraciones no inflamatorias que aparecen en pieles con tendencia acnéica o en cualquier piel con una limpieza inadecuada, debido a la oxidación de las grasas presentes en el canal del folículo pilosebáceo especialmente, en nariz y barbilla.
Tratarlos a tiempo es fundamental, no solo por su repercusión estética, si no porque pueden evolucionar a pápulas, pústulas e incluso en algunos casos a quistes, todos ellos, son alteraciones dolorosas, inflamatorias y más o menos profundas que pueden afectar al límite dermohipodérmico.
Hasta hace muy poco existía la falsa creencia de que una limpieza agresiva era la solución para terminar con los puntos negros, hoy día, se ha demostrado que lo fundamental es llevar a cabo una higiene diaria constante y con los productos adecuados, es más, el uso incontrolado de productos agresivos pueden desembocar en un agravamiento de las lesiones y una irritación de la piel.
Los geles sintéticos (Syndet) son los aliados perfectos para terminar con los comedones tanto abiertos como cerrados, no solo eliminan el exceso de grasa, sino que también terminan con las células muertas, suciedad ambiental,… Effaclar gel de la Roche-Posay es perfecto para pieles sensibles con tendencia grasa, y Blemish+Age Cleansing gel de SkinCeuticals exfolia y descongestiona la piel suavizando las imperfecciones e iluminando la piel madura.
Tras la limpieza hay que secar muy bien el rostro, cuello y escote y aplicar un poco de tónico astringente que además de complementar la limpieza, restablece el pH de la piel y cierra los poros.
Tras la limpieza diaria hay que aplicar un cosmético especialmente formulado para terminar con este problema y que aporte el agua que necesita esta piel sin sobrengrasarla ni irritarla y a ser posible con un alto contenido en activos cicatrizantes y regenerantes. El nuevo Effaclar Duo+ no solo hidrata y reduce las imperfecciones si no que también corrige y previene la aparición de las marcas.
Al menos una vez a la semana es recomendable realizar una exfoliación profunda y aplicar tras ello una mascarilla limpiadora. Con el exfoliante conseguimos renovar la piel, eliminar impurezas y aumentar considerablemente la eficacia de cualquier tratamiento que apliquemos tras él. Personalmente, si la piel no es extremadamente sensible, prefiero los exfoliantes físicos como el de Martiderm que contiene óxido de aluminio y gránulos de sílice de acción abrasiva y exfoliante y ácido salicílico que actúa como antiséptico y seboregulador además de la bentonita y el óxido de zinc que desincrustan y absorben el sebo.
Aquell@s que tenéis la piel algo sensible, o que simplemente no os gustan los exfoliantes físicos os diré que existe en el mercado un exfoliante químico hidrosoluble capaz de reducir el tamaño del poro y dotar a la piel de un tacto más suave, me refiero al ácido glicólico. Si tengo que recomendar un cosmético a base de éste, ese es sin duda Retexturing Activator de SkinCeuticals ya que a diferencia de otros es perfectamente combinable con otros productos y se puede usar a diario sin riesgo de lesión.
Como mascarilla purificante os recomiendo dos: la mascarilla purificante de Martiderm y Clarifying Clay Masque de SkinCeuticals, ésta además de eliminar células muertas e impurezas disminuye las líneas de expresión, arrugas e hiperpigmentaciones al mismo tiempo que suaviza la piel irritada.
Mi último consejo para erradicar los puntos negros creo que es el más importante y el que más se olvida: no tocar, bajo ningún concepto, los comedones de este modo evitaremos la diseminación de las lesiones por todo el rostro y la formación de cicatrices.
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