Los tiempos donde el neceser de un chico solo tenía una cuchilla de afeitar, jabón, o en el mejor de los casos, espuma de afeitar, un gel de baño y un desodorante han quedado muy atrás.
Si algo está cada vez más claro es que ellos también se cuidan. Quieren lucir una piel tersa, hidratada, luminosa,… en definitiva, exactamente igual que nosotras, quieren una piel sana y joven y el mundo dermocosmético lo sabe, de ahí que cada vez sean más las marcas que deciden lanzar una línea pensada y diseñada por y para hombres.
Aunque existen muchos productos considerados unisex, es cierto que la cosmética masculina tiene en cuenta algo básico: la piel del hombre es diferente a la de la mujer.
Seguro que estáis pensando en la principal diferencia, una mayor cantidad de vello, pero no solo es eso, la piel del hombre es más gruesa y porosa, tiene mayor cantidad de colágeno que le aporta mayor firmeza y retrasa la aparición de arrugas, pero cuando éstas aparecen son más profundas que las femeninas. Tienen más abundancia de glándulas sebáceas y sudoríparas que se refleja en una mayor secreción de sebo, sobretodo en la adolescencia, y una mayor sudoración. Si a todo esto le sumamos la terrible agresión a la que se someten cada vez que se afeitan, obtenemos una piel fragilizada y sensible.
Cualquier dermocosmético masculino que se precie no solo tiene en cuenta estas diferencias fisiológicas, sino que también intenta hacer agradable la aplicación del producto teniendo en cuenta otros aspectos muy demandados por los hombres como:
- La textura ha de ser ligera y no grasa, que penetre bien por la zona de la barba, exista o no ésta.
- Deben ser refrescantes, tonificando la piel y aportando sensación de confort inmediato.
- Con envase práctico, irrompible, a ser posible con dosificador.
- Sin perfumes intensos.
Como os comentaba el mundo de la cosmética masculina está creciendo de una forma asombrosa, y eso aunque siempre es bueno, en algunas ocasiones nos puede generar dudas a la hora de elegir qué necesitamos. Permitidme que os destaque lo que yo considero “los básicos” de una rutina dermocosmética masculina:
- Limpiador: Code Purete de Vichy es perfecto para usar dos veces al día es más, si tenéis una barba difícil, donde los pelos enquistados son más frecuentes de lo que os gustaría, un buen exfoliante como Nettoyant purifiant de Lierac puede ser la solución.
- Jabón, crema, espuma o gel de afeitado, que facilitan el hinchamiento de la queratina y el deslizado de la cuchilla, en este aspecto los laboratorios Vichy nos ofrecen una amplia gama.
- After-shave como Sensi-Baume de Vichy . Independientemente de que se haya realizado un afeitado húmedo o seco, este tipo de productos son imprescindibles para recuperar la sensación de confort y bienestar que el afeitado arrebata.
- Phloretin CF gel de SkinCeuticals, un potente antioxidante con una textura en gel que evita los efectos dañinos del sol y de los radicales libres, al mismo tiempo que disminuye la aparición de manchas y arrugas y unifica el tono de la piel, aunque no es un producto específico para hombres, aún no me he encontrado con ninguno al que no le haya gustado y sorprendido.
- Hidratante o crema anti-edad, en función de cómo de envejecida tengamos nuestra piel. Como hidratante os destaco Vichy Idealizer hidratante multiacción, un producto diseñado para chicos con barba y como crema anti edad, la que más nos demandan en la oficina de farmacia: Premium hombre, de Lierac.
- Una buena pantalla total que proteja de toda radiación, y aunque aún no han hecho una exclusiva para hombres, Sheer Mineral UV Defense, nunca defrauda.
- Finalmente os recomiendo el contorno de ojos de Lierac Homme porque la zona periocular hay que mimarla.
Sé lo que estáis pensando, que al final vuestro neceser y mi neceser no van a ser tan diferentes, pero os aseguro que solo se asemejan en el posible número de cosméticos que contengan y en la calidad de los mismos y es que todos tenemos un objetivo común: conseguir una piel más sana y joven.
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